A booze-free (rest of) September

It's officially been decided. Cards will be replacing my vodka/rum/gin intake until the end of the month. I've been in need of a mini detox for a while - well...basically since I moved to Vietnam. So the next few weeks will all be about the Gin Rummy rather than the Gin and Tonics, and i can't wait...

Emotional Hellos and Emotional Goodbyes

The 30th of August saw the end of my Laos and Cambodia travels, and also the end of (for now) hostel life. This meant one thing: I was heading back to HCMC to not only meet my parents, but to also say my emotional goodbyes to the friends who had become my Vietnam family.

Though I finished working for Major English Centre at the end of July, I tagged along to one of their work parties when I arrived back- a bit weird seeing as I never actually attended one whilst I was working there. This felt like a bit of a 'you don't even go here' Mean Girls moment, but I was just going with it.

Anywaaaay, I reunited with only a handful of my old friends who still work there, and around 20 new people. It was a bit surreal to see how it had changed so much in such a short space of time I'd been away, but I soon came to realise that most of them were pretty wicked.

Also I had timed my visit back pretty bloody well, seeing as I was staying during a national holiday meaning everyone was off work! I stayed with my best Vietnam mate Phoebe and we had the greatest/drunkest week and a half ever. 

For the first few days we took a trip to a campsite about an hour and a half away from Saigon, which included a little ferry trip. Going in a convoy of about 25 bikes was a logistical nightmare, and setting off about midday in a hungover state was probably not the wisest plan. We got there to basically find there were no tents available, and the last ferry back was soon to depart.

Luckily we somehow found a motel in the middle of rural Vietnam to host all of us for around 60p a night each. Ridiculous. And over the next few days we basically had one big school trip for teachers (well... including one ex teacher).

We ventured back to this campsite/water park place the next morning, and it was unreal! There were sumo suits, zip lines and this massive cushion in the water which you could jump down on, to then send the other person flying. Phoebe managed to fly I swear about 20 metres in the air, only to then enter the water on the worlds biggest belly flop. She genuinely looked like she was flying. The tears were worth it though Phoebs, it looked so cool.

That evening we spent at a little restaurant place who did us a big BBQ. At around 1am I walked down the road to try and find some vodka in what appeared to be a deserted village. I saw a local woman sitting outside her house and said 'voddddkaaaa?' After walking around with her and knocking on several peoples doors, she managed to wake up her mate who opened their shop just for me. Seriously, this would only happen in Vietnam.

It's little weird things like this that has, over the past week, made me wonder why I'm leaving to go back to a western country, which is going to be at least over four times the price than here.

I think it's just change. Something which I tend to not like at first. Moving to Australia after living in Vietnam for 8 months is going to be a massive change. No more motorbikes, no more street food and no more being able to live off £30 a week. 

But I know that reluctance to change is normal. Moving out to Vietnam in January was fucking terrifying, but I soon realised it was the best decision I could have ever made. If people were always too scared of change, life would be pretty dull.

It's been an emotional past few days. Obviously seeing my parents after 7 months was very surreal. My mum pretty much dropped her suitcase in a crowd of Vietnamese travellers and ran towards me. It was definitely a Love Actually moment. 

However, saying goodbye to some of those who I've known since the beginning of my South East Asian adventure was emotional to say the least. There were a lot of tears involved (as well as a few vodka buckets) and it was all pretty sad. 

I also went to see the smoothie lady where I used to live in District 7 to say goodbye. She still can't speak any English, and I can still only say a few words in Vietnamese... but I think she kind of got the idea I was leaving. She got her camera out and wanted pictures of Mum, Dad and I. Though the smoothie lady makes me look like the BFG, it was the cutest thing ever.

I'd also become friends with the new teachers who I'd only met for about a week, so saying bye to them too left me feeling pretty gutted. There's already some potential plans of meeting up with them in Bali over Christmas, which would be pretty sweet!

It's now time to head up Vietnam for the next two weeks with Tony and Lou before I head over to Australia and leave them for another year. Staying in nice hotels rather than $2 a night hostels, and being spoilt by them has also made me feel like a new woman! Though these malaria tablets have started to make me do some odd things. Naked sleepwalking at Phoebes house for example, but we won't go into that...

Five days in Paradise

The next five days were spent on Koh Rong, a tiny beautiful island just off the south coast of Cambodia. This post is just basically going to rant on about how much I lovevthe island and how everyone should visit it sooner rather than later.

Before I went, I was told that electricity was only on at certain times of the day. Really I should have realised there probably wasn't going to be any ATMs. Obviously I didn't, and I only realised this after I spent all my dollar on rum the first night, oh well.

Anyway this island was unreal. There were only a few bars and hostels and the rest of it was pure beaches and trees. I felt like Leo of The Beach or something. Also no one wore shoes anywhere. People were hula hooping in the sea and just basically chilling all day. I semi thought I was going to leave the island dressed in tie dye with my hair in dreadlocks, but luckily I didn't.

We spent the days literally just chilling on the beaches, swimming in the sea and jumping off the pier. It was the most chilled out place I've ever been. The people working there weren't paid in cash, but in accommodation and food. I was sort of tempted to do the same as I did have time to kill. But as much as I loved the island, 5 days was enough for me. It just didn't seem like real life! We met this one guy named Cookie (I know) and he basically arrived on the island last November and had never left. He was a character that's for sure. 

The hostels we stayed at were like shacks, especially the second one. The girls and I booked into a private room in a hostel on the pier. Half way through the night there was a massive storm. This was fucking terrifying, as it felt like the wooden frame was going to fall into the sea! 

A lot of building work was being carried out along the front, and I reckon in a couple of years to come it could become as developed as the Thai Islands, with more and more people hearing about it. One bar owner there said that people had only been visiting Koh Rong for the past year and a half. It reminded me a bit of Phi Phi Island in Thailand but 100 times smaller. In a few years it could probably be on that similar level, which is a little sad. So I recommend that if you're in SE Asia, you go there now!

I was sad to leave the island, especially when I had more time to kill in Cambodia before my parents arrive in Asia, but any longer there I would probably have turned into a massive hippy. 

After Koh Rong, I made my way up to Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. Which I don't rate. On this trip, I've yet to feel unsafe travelling alone. But here, I just got bad vibes so my days have really just been spent chilling by the hostel pool.

I visited the Killing Fields on the outskirts of the city. Though they are very emotional, you can't not go if you're in Phnom Penh. It was pretty horrific to discover how recent it all was.

To be honest these last few days in Cambodia have been about trying to waste time! I have basically run out of my tax rebate and my Vietnam visa doesn't start until the 30th August. I'm so looking forward to getting back to HCMC to see my friends, and saying goodbye to the city where I've spent my 2014, but I have really loved my time in beeautiful Cambodia and would definitely recommend visiting Siem Reap and Koh Rong. 

Cambodia Week 1: Siem Reap to Sihanoukville

After the physically and emotionally draining journey from Laos to Cambodia (and a 12 hour sleep) I was ready to explore my first stop, Siem Reap. The city seemed pretty developed in comparison to Laos, and it almost felt like I was getting back to civilisation. I spent the day wondering around the markets, getting a massage and managed to get a manicure and pedicure for $5 - the cheapest I've found in SE Asia! My first day was pretty chilled as I was still completely knackered. 

The second day I booked myself into a hostel, where I made friends with some Tunisian medical students (my first ever Tunisian friends?!) and decided to tag along with them to visit a floating village. When travelling alone you just have to put yourself out there, otherwise you could go days without doing anything with anyone! Rarely will someone say no you can't come, well, unless they're weird, or you're weird. 

The floating village was pretty surreal and really really sweaty. My Tunisian mates kept forgetting I was English, so there was a little language barrier but they were really sweet. It's good to meet people you wouldn't normally speak to and I think they liked practising their English with me. After this we went to a temple... my first of many in Siem Reap.

That night I split from my new Tunisian mates and went out for dinner with an English girl from my hostel and friends she had made in Thailand. It turned out that her friends would be who I'd do most of my travelling with in Cambodia!

I moved to a hostel with a pool the next day, and then had a night out with people from my dorm. I woke up hanging but also with a free t-shirt which made my state more worthwhile. I can't seem to handle hangovers like I could when I was 18, so the next night I had a night in only to be woken up by the girl next to me shagging and vomming at 3am. Living the hostel dream. 

The most cultural day probably of all my travelling was spent at the Angkor Wat Temples. I rented a pushbike for a dollar instead of a tuk tuk. Some boy (who was a bit weird) wanted to share one with me, but that would mean I would have been stuck with him all day around the temples. So I sneakily biked at 7am. Maybe a bit cruel. But the the other joy of travelling solo is that you can do whatever you want.

The temples were unreal! I biked to three different ones, including one that featured in Tomb Raider. I got some pretty cool pictures.

I really enjoyed Siem Reap and it really shared similarities to some European cities, making me feel a little closer to home. However I found Cambodia more expensive than I thought it would be, they charge you in US dollars rather than Cambodian Riel, so really everything is at least $1. 

It was then time to leave Siem Reap to get a 12 hour night bus down to Sihanoukville on the south coast of Cambodia. I mean, I don't mind buses. I've been on a lot. But this one was fucking grim! Trying to sleep when things are crawling over you isn't the one. I also had to share a bed again, but this time with a coughing French man. Wicked. 

I arrived in Sihanoukville at 6am where the worlds heaviest suitcase fitted on a motorbike taxi. This was pretty sketchy, but having had no sleep it seemed like a sensible decision. Turns out the girls I went for dinner with in Siem Reap, Sasha, Anna and Hannah, were staying at the same hostel as me!

That night we had a BBQ on the beach followed by drinks out. Sihanoukville seamed pretty seedy. Full of old western men looking for prozzos. So I didn't rate it, but it was a funny night out.

The girls and I then planned to stay together on Koh Rong, a Cambodian island just to the south of the country. To be honest, we were looking forward to getting out of Sihanoukville ASAP. 

The Big Gayton Reunion!

Just two tiny weeks until I'm reunited with my two favourite people ever! After being away from home for 7 months, it's safe to say it's going to be emotional. Saigon airport better be prepared.

My A-Z of South East Asia

A- Angkor Wat Temples.Visit these if you're in Siem Reap, Cambodia. You can get from a one day to a week pass and visit at sunrise or sunset too. If you are alright in the heat, you could spend all day wondering around each temple - including one that was featured in Tomb Raider! But be warned: it's sweaty. Take a flannel/fan and if like me you cycled there, take a spare set of clothes.

B- Bum guns. Asia hasn't gotten to grips yet with toilet roll down the toilet, so be prepared for the bum gun. People either love or hate them. I think they're actually alright. 

C- Custom-made clothes. If you're ever in Hoi An, Vietnam, be sure to get some custom made clothes. You can go in one day, pick out what you want, they measure you and it's ready to pick up the next day. So cheap too! 

D- Dorms. If you want to meet more people on your travels, stay in dorms. I've stayed in some wicked ones and some not so wicked ones. Though, if getting a full 8 hour sleep is your top priority check into a private room. The other day I woke up at 3am to a girl shagging in the bed opposite me. I then woke up at 6am to the sound of her vomming down the side of her bed. Nice. 

E- Egg and rice. Perfectly normal to eat this for breakfast. My old housemate Rach and I started to get cravings for it. Bit weird but so great.

F- Free/fake clothes. I love a free t-shirt, even if this means spending money on loads of drinks. Also fake clothes are great in Asia too. Ben Tanh Market in Saigon do good Converse, Cath Kidson and North Face things. 

G- 'Gap Yah'. Prepare for the same questions - 'how long have you been travelling?', 'where have you been?' etc. etc.

H- Hangovers. In this heat, they're horrific. Get a room with air con or a fan at least.

I- Immodium. No explanation needed.

J- Jokes. If you travel on your own it means that whenever you find something funny, you'll be laughing on your own. You could sometimes look a bit weird. 

K- Ko Phangan. The funnest place ever! Try and go for full moon. But if your trip can't coincide with that, there are half moon and black moon parties too. They stretch it out a bit.

L- Loneliness. Travelling alone can mean airports or bus stations can feel a bit lonely. It's completely normal and is good as it will build your confidence in starting up conversations with anyone.

M- Mud baths. Go get muddy in Nha Trang, Vietnam. It's so much fun.

N- Names. You'll never remember everyone's names you meet travelling, but try to just to avoid the  embarrassment. I called someone Sarah the other day. Her name was definitely Emily.

O- Organisation. There's no need to be overly obsessive with this, just always make sure before you move places you have the valuables (passport).

P- Pho (rice noodle soup). Vietnams most popular food. Breakfast, lunch or tea, it's always pho time.

Q- Quiet. If you want a bit of peace and quiet for a night or two, book yourself into a private room. Often they're the same price or even cheaper than dorms. I'm currently staying in one for $5 a night. Bargain. Though I'm pretty sure it's part hostel, part brothel.

R- Rehydration salts. Always good to have in your case. Being ill abroad is literally the worst thing ever and I swear by these.

S- Sleeper buses. The cheapest way to get from city to city or even country to country. It would appear that I can't get enough of buses! Watch out for those bed bugs though.

T- Tubing. When in Vang Vieng, Laos do it! My friend and I were so unlucky with the weather and it was cancelled. Canoeing was a pretty sweet substitute though.

U- Umbrellas. Always handy if you're travelling in monsoon season. The amount of times I've arrived to places looking like I'd take a fully clothed shower is ridiculous.

V- Very boring waits. Airports, bus stations, hostel receptions- be prepared for long long waits. Bring a book or make a friend. 

W- Waterfalls. Visit the waterfalls in Luang Prabang, Laos, they're beautiful!

X- Kissing. In a lot of places in South East Asia it's disrespectful to have PDA's, so maybe save your kissing for somewhere a bit more private. 

Y- Yes. Say yes to things that you wouldn't normally do! You only live once. Be adventurous. 

Z- zzz. Napping is my favourite hobby. The heat can make you so sleepy, so treat yourself, have a nap. 

Laos > Cambodia - My 10 part journey

Jesus Christ. This emotional journey needs a whole post of its own. Maybe I should have taken a look at a map before deciding to head straight from Vang Vieng, Laos to Siem Reap, Cambodia without any stops. But obviously that would have been the more sensible decision.

So I said my goodbyes at 13.00 on the Monday and arrived into Siem Reap at 22.00 on the Tuesday. The journey went something a little like this...

Part 1: I took my first bus from Vang Vieng to Vientiane. It took around 5 hours and was pretty lonely. Even though I've travelled before on my own and I don't have any issues with it, doing this after travelling with someone 24/7 can take some adjusting to. 

Part 2: Arrived in Vientiane to catch my next sleeper bus to Pakse. I got on expecting to see a single bed. No. It was a very small double bed to share with a stranger (see picture). I was hoping so badly I wasn't going to be lying next to a smelly man, or a weirdo. Or worse... a smelly weirdo. Luckily I was paired up with another English girl and we ended up talking for hours and telling each other our life stories, though we didn't actually find out each others names! This journey took until the early morning. 

Part 3: Got off this bus to then be herded into a mini bus, where it was just me and the two Lao drivers. For about a good hour, I was convinced I was being taken somewhere to be sold. Luckily, the mini bus then picked up a few more travellers which made me feel tons better and that I wasn't going to be sold. This mini bus then dropped us off in literally the middle of nowhere in some little bus shack. By this time, I was sleep deprived, had run out of snacks and was in need of a toilet that was something more than a piss ridden hole in the ground. 

Part 4: Got on a different mini bus to be taken across the Laos/Cambodia border. This all went smoothly though it took about 2 hours. By this time I had listened to all my iPod songs around 3 times each.

Part 5: Got on a coach the other side of the border. This bus had no air conditioning and I was sat next to the worlds smelliest man. I know I probably wasn't smelling or looking too fresh either, but genuinely he smelt a mixture of cheese, egg and wee. Fantastic. To make things more exciting, the roads we were going down weren't really roads, more like a tracks. So inevitably, everyone had to get off the bus and walk one mile to give the coach more of a chance of getting over the pot holes. I got pretty sunburnt. 

Part 6: We were then allowed back on the bus.

Part 7: Dropped off in some random town to pick up a ferry to cross a river we had just crossed on a bridge. Seriously. Also at this point I was seriously in need of some snacks/water/toilet.

Part 8: Thought by now I could potentially be on the home straight. Yeahhhhh. No. I was told that I could pay $20 and take a 'new road' which would take around 6 hours, or not pay any extra and take the old road which would be another 15 hours...At this point I'd been travelling for around 26 hours. I gave the man his money.

Part 9: Arrived at Siem Reap bus station at 21.30, which was on the outskirts of the city. Found a place to get a snickers and a bottle of water. I then got a tuk tuk to my hostel. The tuk tuk man was pretty sweet and was trying to take me on a mini tour. All I wanted to do was starfish my bed. 

Part 10: Feeling and looking fresh I arrived at 'Home Sweet Home' hostel as one tired, emotional, hungry and thirsty woman. 

33 hours...I made it! Moral of this story: never take a bus journey without looking at a map first.